Thursday, April 18, 2024

PALOMO – TIBURÓN SPRING SUMMER 2022 COLLECTION


TIBURN, Palomo's Spring Summer 2022 collection, establishes a vibrant parallelism between the sobriety of the lives of businessmen with an aesthetic of rigid structure and the inhibition they flaunt in an eccentric way, encouraged by their desire for greatness and the generous funds in their accounts. Alejandro, creative director, explores the executive world inspired by classics from the world of cinema and literature such as Dress for Success, American Psycho or The Wolf of Wall Street, taking them as a reference to reinforce the portrait of successful professional figures from financial capitals such as New York, Silicon Valley or the business center of Madrid: Paseo de la Castellana, where the collection sees the light for the first time. Alluding to the classic tailoring of the office worker, the collection places great emphasis on tailoring, transforming classic lines into more contemporary concepts, an exercise that the Cordovan house carries out using prints that allude to visions of psychedelia, the result of a reality seasoned with narcotics.

Iconographic elements of the poshest individuals of the local scene, such as polo shirts, knitted sweaters -which will be Palomo's first knitwear exercise- or classic trench coats acquire the brand's recognizable queer codes by turning them into shameless pique pieces or dyeing them with gradient color palettes. The most striking example of this transformation that Palomo suggests for classic Madrid comes in the form of mink and sable coats, which the designer interprets in a version of light marabou feathers worthy of Liberace himself.

The prints, with great presence in the collection, accompany a skyline scenario of skyscrapers with gradients that allude to the sunrises and sunsets of the big cities. Applied on shirting fabrics, referring to the office worker's uniform, faded stripes reminiscent of the conventional pinstripe and 70's inspired geometries are other elements arranged in these colorful prints, created entirely in the atelier space.

In contrast to the more formal outfits, Palomo bets on its sportiest line - contextualized in the territory of the cult of the body, the gym or the sauna, - showing tracksuit sets, polo shirts, overalls and its first line of summer knitwear; all in bright colors.

Continuing with this more casual line, Levi's denim garments have been customized to transfer these same codes to the iconic 501, subjected to laser processes that reveal a zebra pattern camouflaged among rips and tears, which come to life with the movement of the passing models.

The allusion to the "aggressiveness" that gives the reference to the animal world helps contextualizing the madness of Wall Street.

This spring, accessories take on a new, more notorious level, dressing up most of the looks with colorful leather briefcases in crocodile print. "Castellana", the name Alejandro has given to his new flagship bag, also appeared in an uber-desirable mini size. Accompanying the bags, Palomo's most recognizable shoes repeated on the runway, in a carry over selection of lace-up shoes, booties and boots that enhanced the stride of each and every one of the models.

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Designer Alejandro Gmez Palomo



























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