Friday, April 19, 2024

Christian Dior. SS 2023 Haute Couture Week.


Christian Dior. Spring-Summer 2023 Couture Collection during Haute Couture Week.

The craft of thought

For Maria Grazia Chiuri, each haute couture dfil is an opportunity to explore the complex thought processes connected to a garment constructed for a body. The couture garment is a body-garment. A body-home. A body-manifesto.

This Dior spring-summer 2023 collection is guided by Josphine Baker, the African-American singer and dancer who left the United States in the mid 1920s for the cosmopolitan city of Paris, which was a dream destination for artists, writers and fashion designers. A glamorous icon, she embodies the modernity of those years, the transgression of stereotypes and prejudices, the mixing of cultures and shared experiences that notably animated the vibrant world of cabaret. Having acquired French citizenship, she was acclaimed by post-war Europe and performed at the Strand Theatre and Carnegie

Hall, New York, dressed in French fashion, such as the Dior creations that crowned her charisma and success.

The photographs of Josphine Baker, whose energy is emphasized by their black and white tonality, compose a form of sartorial biography (capturing her as a dancer, entertainer, member of the French Resistance, civil rights activist for the African-Americans, humanist and universal benefactress), the exemplary story of a pioneer, a role-model. The cozy, intimate dressing room that precedes her entrance on stage is evoked by a series of coats, reminiscent of the bathrobe, which conceals and protects.

Made of light velvet, crumpled and dynamic, or quilted, they open onto pieces of light satin underwear that are transformed into protagonists themselves, their powdered hues and black providing a contemporary interpretation of 1950s classics.

The clothes glide over the body and caress it. In silk, in velvet, often with a creased effect, a syncopated rhythm, breathing vitality into the fabric. The embroidery is delicate. Tiny silver studs and sequins occupy the space and absorb the runway lights to reflect them onto the audience. Fringes in shades of silver and gold accompany and magnity the choreography of the movements sketched by the body. The suits and coats pay tribute to the masculine fabrics dear to Monsieur Dior. The length, always above the ankle, reveals shoes with heels and imposing soles.

The show's staging by African-American artist Mickalene Thomas, celebrates black and mixed-race women, like Josphine Baker, who evolved into powerful figureheads by breaking racial barriers and going against the grain. She unveils the deep meaning of this collection and shakes up the vision of haute couture, the essence of fashion that can become a radical gesture of awareness of its own value and strength.

24Fashion TV 001 1675431192 jpg24Fashion TV 002 1675431199 jpg24Fashion TV 003 1675431202 jpg24Fashion TV 004 1675431205 jpg24Fashion TV 005 1675431208 jpg24Fashion TV 006 1675431212 jpg24Fashion TV 007 1675431216 jpg24Fashion TV 008 1675431219 jpg24Fashion TV 009 1675431222 jpg24Fashion TV 010 1675431225 jpg24Fashion TV 011 1675431228 jpg24Fashion TV 012 1675431232 jpg24Fashion TV 013 1675431235 jpg24Fashion TV 014 1675431239 jpg24Fashion TV 015 1675431243 jpg24Fashion TV 016 1675431247 jpg24Fashion TV 017 1675431250 jpg24Fashion TV 018 1675431253 jpg24Fashion TV 019 1675431256 jpg24Fashion TV 020 1675431260 jpg



Text and Photo: Press Christian Dior

More on: www.dior.com @dior


By Senior Fashion Editor 24FashionTVChristina V Henningstad @christina_henningstad


Similar Articles

business banners

Most Popular