Tuesday, April 23, 2024

EENK AW 24-25 during Paris Fashion Week


EENK AW 24-25 Fall-Winter 2024/2025 COLLECTION during Paris Fashion Week

Since its founding in 2013, each of EENKs collections has represented a chapter of the labels Letter Project, pondering a theme in line with a par- ticular letter of the Roman alphabet K for Knit; U for Utopia; Y for Yes- terday, and so on. AW24 marks a full-circle moment in the Seoul-based luxury brands conceptual trajectory: Z for Zero to One.

Gesturing towards concurrent notions of completion and new begin- nings, the collection sees brand founder Hyemee Lee contemplate the value of zero in East Asian philosophical traditions Taoism in particular. While in Western cultures, the figure is typically perceived as a cipher for absence, Hyemee highlights its antithetical connotations of abstract pleni- tude a state of non-being in which the boundaries between the individual constituents of a wider whole dissolve; a state of everything-ness, rather than nothingness, if you will.

It is this intrinsic relationship between zero and one that serves as the collections conceptual underpinning. Notions of how a whole is defined by the individual components it comprises are expressed through innovative experiments in colour, texture and couture-level detail.

Tufted overcoats envelop the body, cutting bold silhouettes that are the result of a clumped-together mass of woollen fronds. The fabric becomes a material baseline throughout the collection, appearing across trims, ban- deaus, a chain-appliqu dress and even a pair of mens shorts. A cocoon coat illustrates the collections central theme through its composition a gauzy tissage while a bobbled skirt is crafted from three-dimensional roses, each painstakingly crafted from individual organza petals.

A brushed coat shimmers with metallic fibres and a pencil skirt and split-hemmed cigarette pants come speckled with glinting crystal embel- lishments; individual sparkles come together to create an uplifting visual texture, recalling the innumerable mass of stars that populate the all-en- compassing night sky. This sense of infinity, of endlessness, is alluded to through ballooning, couture silhouettes from convex skirts comprised of fused strips of champagne satin to swollen bishop-sleeved coats, garments take a 0 shape.

While prior chapters in EENKs Letter Project have demonstrated an in- tuitively eccentric approach to colour, Zero to One sees Hyemee resort to a binary palette of black and cream. Novel territory for the brand, this visual restraint allows for a more concentrated consideration of form and its relationship to the collections philosophical preoccupations.

Despite this opening of new horizons, the importance of building on a foundation of heritage is strongly alluded to in this seasons accessories. Traditional Korean sartorialism is subtly invoked by way of a leather ankle boot with a contrast upper nodding to beoseon while a slouchy shoulder bag with a belt detail offers a modern interpretation of the botjim, a bundle-style bag historically worn as a backpack. Proudly dis- tinct as individual entities, when brought together, the collections pieces amass to create a robust whole.

Runway Looks

24Fashion TV EENK AW 24 25 001 1709151118 jpg24Fashion TV EENK AW 24 25 002 1709151121 jpg24Fashion TV EENK AW 24 25 003 1709151124 jpg24Fashion TV EENK AW 24 25 004 1709151127 jpg24Fashion TV EENK AW 24 25 005 1709151129 jpg24Fashion TV EENK AW 24 25 006 1709151132 jpg24Fashion TV EENK AW 24 25 007 1709151134 jpg24Fashion TV EENK AW 24 25 008 1709151137 jpg24Fashion TV EENK AW 24 25 009 1709151140 jpg24Fashion TV EENK AW 24 25 010 1709151142 jpg24Fashion TV EENK AW 24 25 011 1709151145 jpg24Fashion TV EENK AW 24 25 012 1709151147 jpg24Fashion TV EENK AW 24 25 013 1709151150 jpg

Photo: Press EENK

More on: @eenk_official


By Senior Fashion Editor 24FashionTVChristina V Henningstad @christina_henningstad


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